Dubai, UAE, June 23, 2016: Where does purity end and decoration begin? The discourse is thoughtfully considered this Fall at Sportmax where the brand’s restraint and clarity are refracted through a newly decorative lens. At its heart, the collection pulses with the exuberance of Morocco and the urban functionality of military wear, but both influences are sharply distilled, allowingunexpected patterns and new decoration to emerge in a controlled, clean manner. The Sportmax woman is, as always, strident and dynamic as she confidently paces with the times. The graphic influences this season are exotic and yet carefully contained. Hand-crafted Moroccan tiles inspire the puzzle- like patchworks of leather and suede on boxy jackets or slim long coats. Fragmented tiles are transformed into macro appliques on wool felt coats. Nomad rug stripes inform the meticulous lines created on intarsia mink coats or on felted wool strips that are cut and pasted into graphic bands on square cut panels. An artisan feel penetrates the workmanship and the handcraft of this collection and yet, the integrity of the clothes remains as clear as ever. A clean palette of ecru, chocolate, black and combat khaki greens gives the clothes a sporty elan, while silhouettes unfold with a puritanical, simplicity. Long lengths permit the flash of naked winter ankles, while layered shirting creates a studious charm. From suede and satin pleat wrap dresses to felt wool long coats and swing
jackets, the clothes are all slashed on the sides, allowing the Sportmax woman to stride forward with liberating movement. Military influences add a cool, utilitarian edge. Camoflauge patterns are created on the elaborate stitching on quilted satin coat or appliqued sweaters. Zippers, D-rings and functional snap fastenings are used to decrease volume at the waist or pull back panels to reveal a purely female form. Materials such as python, pony, nappa leathers and suedes are used not only on clothes but on large soft bags where they are artfully inlayed in graphic, tiled patterns. The original mix adds a layer of exotic luxury to the collection’s restrained, modernist interpretation of Moorish decoration. With soulful, kohl-rimmed eyes, and shoes with sculpted pyramid hexagonal block heels in chili red or turmeric yellow, the models confidently breeze through a spiritual mock cloister made of dense foam towers. Entitled “Chamber” the set was designed by the Italian-born, Eindhoven-based design duo FormaFantasma. Inspired by architectural elements in medieval paintings, the labyrinth-like format intensifies the ambiguity of the season’s pressing question. Perhaps there are
no precise answers, after all; fashion is simply a journey to embark upon and enjoy.
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